What’s the point of….surfing?
A friend from the city asked this on a recent trip back. Nestled quietly in the corner of a busy pub, just south of Croydon, an old friend had been asking what I do with my life? Not wanting to believe you could surf in the UK, let alone make a viable income around it. He asked what’s the point? A few beers later we had put the world to rights. I’d shown him our local breaks. (Couple of glorified photos of me) After going way to emotionally deep, he came around and agreed to visit in the spring and give it a crack.
It wasn’t until my hazy drive home later the next day, that I really pondered the question. What’s the point? Why bother?
This is especially the case in deepest darkest January, covered in 5mm of neoprene, freezing in the Widemouth carpark. Short answer, it’s fun! The personal connection with the ocean. The feedback through your craft, turning slight movements from your feet into pure bliss.
Every one does it different, every wave is different. And it has different meaning for everyone. But the one thing everyone gets out if it is enjoyment.
Go surf… It’s fun.
Words by Liam Goodenough –@goodenough4u