Portugal has always been a firm favourite with the Rooted Ocean crew, with many of you having been there for either a surf trip, driving through from Spain or just for some quality holiday time.
David Somerville and his partner Dolly have been travelling there for years, ostensibly to watch the WSL Pro Portugal surf contest, but also to take time to explore the landscape, food, history.
Recently back from their latest trip, David shares some of what make their trips so special, and why they return year after year.
Why Portugal?
We’ve been on our annual pilgrimage together to Peniche in Portugal since 2013, only missing out when Pandemic travel restrictions prevented us. I had also been a few times to the Algarve and on a friend’s birthday surf trip to Peniche.
We had both always wanted to watch a WSL surf contest live and the (at that time) ASP Rip Curl Pro Portugal had been held since 2010 in the town of Peniche, specifically at the famed beach break of Supertubos.
Also my partner Dolly, who is Mick Fanning’s Number 1 fan, wanted to see him surf before he retired (which luckily we got to do that!).
So the decision to go to Portugal, not long after we met, was always on the cards.
Peniche is the place
Peniche is a fishing town, located on Portugal’s west ‘Silver Coast’. It’s around an hour north of the capital Lisbon. Getting there is easy, with a flight that’s just over two hours from most UK airports and then a hire car drive or bus ride.
The town has a thriving fishing industry still and is known for it’s sardines. It has it’s own history, with a fortress built in the 1500s and the old town walls still standing.
Having stayed in several houses or apartments within the town for the past 11 years, we’ve had plenty of opportunity to explore its narrow streets, cafes, bakeries and wonderful restaurants.
The Pro
In 2009, Rip Curl arranged for their ‘Search Event’ to be held in Portugal, taking place at Supertubos and the nearby waves at Lagide (a reef break in the village of Baleal). It was won by Mick Fanning and helped Portugal to take it’s place on the World professional stage.
The following year it became part of the ASP (and subsequently WSL) Championship Tour and is now a regular fixture, also being Europe’s only event left on the tour.
I know some surfers are not interested in pro surfing and some don’t feel the WSL always does a great job, but watching a CT contest in-person is a great experience. This is partly down to the passion that the Portuguese have for surfing, and that’s not just the surfers either. We’ve witnessed thousands and thousands of people crammed onto the sand, watching and cheering. The atmosphere, especially on the weekends (and when the Brazilians are surfing) is pretty special. People drive from all over Portugal (and further afield) sometimes just for the day to watch the contest.
Every year we’ve watched has been different and admittedly on some occasions Supertubos has not lived up to its name (or reputation), however over the years we’ve seen some amazing surfing and drama either on the sand or in the water. Highlights include Gabriel Medina storming the judges’ tower when he got disqualified and seeing Kelly Slater surf his last contest in Portugal before retiring.
With the pros staying in and around Peniche, when the contest is on a lay-day, then chances are you will get the chance to watch them free surf (or even join them in the line-up), plus bump into them in the supermarket, local restaurant or café.
One of my personal biggest memories was on a lay day, when we got a tip off where the pros were surfing. We drove along the ‘Northern Track’, trekked up the beach in the rain and sheltered in a small cave. Out in front of us was the whole of the men’s contingent surfing a perfect 6ft A-frame peak. This was several years ago, so we go to watch the likes of Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Taj Burrow, Jordy Smith, Josh Kerr, Freddy Pattachia and the G.O.AT. himself, Kelly Slater, absolutely ripping the rights and lefts.
Since 2019 the women’s event has been held in Portugal every year too (it was part of early events, but disappeared from the calendar for a number of years), which has been great to see the crowds buzzing to see the ‘old guard’ including Steph Gilmore and Tyler Wright, plus the new crew of Caity Simmers and Molly Picklum.
Watching the pro surfers in person is great, especially when they pull into a heavy draining Supertubos barrel or throw some ridiculous air.
Also, when it’s on, Supertubos is a proper wave. I’ve seen it at three-times overhead, with huge spitting barrels that are breaking in super shallow water. When it’s head-high and over, there’s multiple snapped boards washing up on the beach and often some serious injuries.
Another reason why we keep going back is the people we meet there. There’s a good group of us from Portugal, Spain, Germany and the UK who have known each other for years. And we’ve had the chance to get to know the commentators, camera crew and surf photographers. Whether or not you’re into pro surfing, meeting people who are so stoked on surfing is always good.
Waves, waves and more waves
Sitting on a rocky peninsula, Peniche, has the advantage of beaches (and surf spots) that face in multiple directions. This means that unless the wind is strong from the north west, there’s almost always an offshore wave.
This, coupled with the rise in popularity of the Pro contest, has seen Peniche turned into a bit of a surfing ‘mecca’, with plenty of surf schools, surf shops and accommodation. There’s also a big local crew, many of whom are friendly enough, but you naturally still need to follow the standard rules of surf etiquette.
Despite this, there’s often times when you can still find good waves that are uncrowded, especially away from the more popular spots.
Also about an hour down the coast is Ericeira, which is another surf-stoked town. There’s plenty of high-quality waves, including several reef breaks that are world-class on their day.
Another hour away, but this time north of Peniche is Nazare. Once a relatively unknown town, it’s now been put firmly on the map due to its big waves. Over the past 12 years there’s been an influx of people looking to ride the biggest waves possible, including Britain’s Andrew Cotton, Tom Butler, Ben Larg and Laura Crane – who broke her ankle there in a comp this Winter and is thankfully well on the mend.
Visiting Nazare when there’s a big swell running is a must. You walk down the road towards the Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo, which sits perched on a high cliff above the sea. When the swell is really big you will hear it first before you see it, then turning a corner you witness some absolute monsters unloading their full power onto the rocky headland.
We’ve stood on top of the fort and watched people towed into waves that are so big it’s hard to comprehend.
Food and drink
Portugal is a real delight if you love your food and wine. Yes, there are Pastel de nata in abundance (the little custard tarts) and yes, they are very good, but there’s so much more on offer.
With Peniche being a fishing town it’s full of fishing restaurants as you would expect. The quality and freshness of the fish is amazing. And it’s probably half the price of what we pay in the UK.
From sea bass to grilled sardines, octopus to bacalhau (salt cod) it’s all readily available and simply served with some boiled potatoes and cabbage. Washed down with a glass or two of chilled Vinho Verde wine is my favourite way to end the day.
Breakfast in Portugal is typically coffee and cake, both of which the Portuguese consume in abundance.
Vinho Verde (green wine) is excellent, but so too is all of the wines that Portugal produces. On a surf trip years ago our group found an old man who had massive barrels of local red wine in his house that you could buy a litre of (bring your own plastic milk container) for one Euro. And it was some of the best wine ever!
History
Portugal, like most of Europe, has a really rich history and much of this is still evident today in castles, cathedrals, palaces, architecture and more.
The country’s history can be traced to around 400,000 years ago, since when it’s seen civilisations including the Celts, Ancient Greeks and Romans.
In more recent times it’s seen dictatorships and a bloodless left-wing military coup in 1974.
If you love exploring ancient things, then you will be in your element. Over the years, we’ve tried to visit plenty and can highly recommend the following (all of which are within an hour or so from Peniche):
- Obidos – a walled town established by the Moors in 712. Ignore the tourist shops and go early or late, walk through the cobbled streets and climb the high stone walls (no health and safety here!)
- Batalha Monastery – a large monastery that was built in the 14th century
- Tomar Castle – perched high on a hill above the town of Tomar, this castle was built in the 12 century and added to by the Knights Templar over the years
- Sintra’s palaces – Sintra is a fairly small town, but has four palaces and a castle to visit.
- Fatima – a place of pilgrimage and fascinating to witness the dedication of those who do that.
In conclusion, if you’re looking for somewhere with good food and wine, friendly people, centuries of history and excellent surf, then look no further than Portugal.
Whether you head to Peniche or venture south to the Algarve (or even north to the Porto area), you will not be disappointed.
